As part of our 185th-anniversary celebrations, we welcomed Kirby Allison back to the Canons workshop for a second conversation with our Master Last-Maker, Simon Bolzoni, this time exploring the particular challenges of fitting bespoke loafers.

Unlike lace-up shoes, loafers offer little opportunity for adjustment once they are on the foot. Their fit relies upon the precise relationship between the heel, instep and forepart, requiring careful consideration of the individual characteristics of the wearer’s feet.

The absence of laces makes the last-maker’s work particularly important. A successful fit must hold the foot securely while allowing the shoe to remain comfortable throughout the day, without compromising its proportions or elegance.

In this conversation, Simon and Kirby examine the skill involved in achieving this balance and the role of traditional last-making in producing a well-fitting bespoke loafer.

Our thanks to Kirby Allison for returning to the workshop and continuing to document the work of our craftsmen.

Watch the full conversation below.

For a further discussion of bespoke last-making, fit and comfort, see our more recent conversation with Kirby Allison: The Art of Bespoke Last-Making – Simon Bolzoni with Kirby Allison.