Bespoke last-making lies at the heart of traditional shoemaking, determining how a shoe accommodates the individual characteristics of the wearer’s feet.
We were pleased to welcome Kirby Allison back to our London workshop for a detailed discussion with our Master Last-Maker, Simon Bolzoni, exploring the relationship between individual last-making, shoe construction and comfort.
Using a selection of fitting shoes prepared for individual clients, Simon demonstrates how differences in foot shape, arch structure, instep and weight distribution influence the making of a bespoke last. Even feet of the same nominal shoe size can vary considerably, requiring an individual approach to achieve the correct balance of fit, support and proportion.
The conversation also examines the importance of traditional hand-welted construction, which allows the shoemaker to preserve the carefully shaped contours of the last through to the finished shoe.
Drawing upon more than twenty years of experience, Simon discusses how his approach to last-making has developed from the methods taught to him by master last-maker Terry Moore, and how the continual process of measuring, making and fitting has informed that development.
Throughout the discussion, a central principle remains: a bespoke shoe should accommodate the individual characteristics of the wearer’s feet without compromising the elegance of its design.
Our thanks to Kirby Allison for another thoughtful visit and for his continued interest in the work of our craftsmen.
Watch the full conversation below.